Itty Bitty aka Coco with Emily at home in Indiana. Mom Angie says this about SWAP, "A wonderful program - working hard to find homes for ANY horse, every day.  Keep up the good work!!"

Crossed Sabers Stable
The Mountain State Horse School and Second Wind Adoption Program, Inc.
Crossed Sabers International Life School, Inc.

 

Mailing/Physical Address: Rt 2 Box 24A Jockey Camp Road, West Union, WV 26456
Office Phone: 304-873-3532   Fax: 304-873-1867 (call before faxing)
Email for Second Wind Adoption Program: SecondWindAdopt@aol.com 

 

Visiting Hours: Daily 10 to 3pm (eastern time) by appointment
Pick Up and Delivery of Horses:  9am to 8pm by appointment
Office Hours: Summer office hours 12 noon until 4pm
 
Driving Directions: Click here for directions to the Headquarters farm there is a note to all truckers and transporters on this page that is critical to coming to the HQ farm, please read!
 
Flying In: Fly into Pittsburgh Airport (PIT) and rent a car or call us to pick you up (its about 2.5 hours from the farm) or fly into Clarksburg Airport (CKB) or Parkersburg Airport (PKB) and we can pick you up, both CKB and PKB are less than an hour away.

BRIDLE & BIT
Home Up ABOUT US ADOPTING ADOPTION APPLICATION CODE OF ETHICS CONTACT US CONTRACT DIRECTIONS DONATING DONOR FORMS ESTATE PLANNING EXPERT WITNESS FOLLOW UP FORM HAPPY ENDINGS 10 HORSES ADOPTED 10 HORSES AVAILABLE IN THE NEWS OLD TIMERS OUR STAFF PRESIDENT RESCUES RETURNS SWAP SHOPPING TESTIMONIALS TRANSPORT VISITING HORSES WISHLIST

June is Adopter Update Month, Don't forget!! We've been getting updates every week, thank you all for all the ones that have been sent. Looking forward to hearing from the rest of you!

         

tons of new saddles, all types with great prices, more tack for sale! Plus one week left on our Cape Cod Cottage

We had a super Volunteer Weekend with tons of visitors, be looking for another real soon!

iGive.com color logo

thank you to all who regular buy from IGive and donate to SWAP! We get a check almost every month from them from your purchases!

SWAP FEED FUND

MAKE CREDIT CARD DONATIONS TO THE SWAP FEED FUND... CALL FOSTER FEEDS AT 304-269-1333, TALK TO CHARLIE TO GIVE A DONATION TO THE SECOND WIND ADOPTION PROGRAM FEED FUND, WE GO THROUGH 6 TONS OF FEED A MONTH. YOU CAN ALSO PAY FOR ADOPTIONS AND PURCHASES THIS WAY!!

 visitors by country counter blog counter
monthly counters started on February 13, 2010 for the website, because this is a free counter, it will only show about a 1/4 of our total numbers, so its not an accurate depiction of all of our visitors, just gives an idea about all the people that visit our site. We do love our international visitors. Welcome!

Visitors By Country

Top 100 Visitors

Last 100 Visitors

Visitors Map

Daily Stats

Congrats to our President for the nomination and eventual induction to the ROTC Hall of Fame at West Virginia State University, nominated by the former VP of the University, the induction will take place at the Embassy Suites in Charleston, WV October 14, 2010. A former military school, rich in a history of national defense has only inducted just over 100 military retirees to its Hall of Fame, many of them general officers. Congratulations on this huge honor.

Stay up with our President/Executive Director, all the directors, volunteers and riders. All the CSS/SWAP supporters and adopters are having a big time sharing stories, pictures, lots of good stuff about their horses. Our President is at her max friends so she is full but we are going to set up a fan based page so everyone can be added. So sorry to the 200 + people who have asked for a friendship.... we'll get our fan page up soon.

don't forget to order your SWAP wines, exceptional wines from Chile and Spain with a Second Wind Label, order on a secure website and have them shipped right to your house. ALL profits for the wine goes to our Second Wind horses and Old Timers Sanctuary

Benefit Wines is a unique online retail wine shop that partners with non-profit organizations to raise funds. Every charity partner has their own unique wine label. Supporters enjoy fine, organic wines while supporting their favorite cause. Cheers!

We are still looking for teams, $1000. donated or raised and sent to SWAP puts you in the running for a chance to win this beautiful 15 carat ruby/diamond ring, the drawing is 1 December so there is plenty of time to raise those funds!! Winner get the 3 appraisals on the value on the ring (I promise its going to be a shocker for some lucky supporter!)

Raise $1000. for Second Wind Adoption Program and have a 1 in 70 chance at a 15 carat Ruby/Diamond Ring! ... mail donations to Rt. 2 Box 24A Jockey Camp Road, West Union, WV 26456

The Wish List of Our Needs:

More than anything we need a large donation to help us pay off our farm, we just owe 70k. With a farm paid for, we will never worry about the program and schools closing.

We are looking for 2 to 3 people to do work in exchange for a place to live.

1. New or lightly used truck and 3 to 6 horse trailer, our equipment has seen its better days, we've been using both for nearly 14 years to pick up horses and move them to their new homes.

2. A Farm in any location for low cost long term lease or donation to expand our program to develop a retirement farm for our now aging horses returned to us from adopters who could not retire our horses. Our highest priority locations initially are Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Maryland, or Delaware.

3. New or Lightly Used Farm utility vehicle (like a john deere gator),  farm tractor, & manure spreader

4. Tack and large horse items donated... like carts/buggies, racing bikes, jog carts, harnesses, saddles, horse trailers, blankets/rugs to use or sell on SWAP Shopping. Supplies to use around the barn or office.

5. A bulk feed bin that will hold anywhere from 6 tons to 9 tons of grain donated or at low cost or even a break on the cost of purchase and instillation.

6. A volunteer or low cost employee who can help us fix our database that lists all adopters, donors, supporters and horses/dogs/cats in the program.

7. Some sort of a cloth facility like Cover-all or Farm-Tek building to increase our abilities to be able to take more horses and have an indoor area to work and train horses in winter, donated, grant or partially donated. anywhere from 50 x 200 to 72 x 300.

8. Monthly Sponsors for our light use, elderly or retirement/sanctuary horses/dogs who's possibilities for adoption are very low, ie. Orphy, Jelly Bean, Dixie, Allie, Kochese, Darlin, Mr. Darcey, JoJo, Freckles, Lucy, Bandit, Max, etc.

9. Volunteers to commit to doing one fund raiser for SWAP horses at your location during 2010, it can be a golf tournament, a bake sale, book sale, lemonade stand, car wash, setting up an information stand at a horse show. This is a great way to kids to get involved in helping horses.

10 Anyone interested in free high quality top soil (manure already composted) and manure for gardens, you can pick up for free by the truck load at our WV location (bring a loader). If you are a gardener and only need a small amount, pick up in a truck or we'll be selling it by the feed bag full at $2.00 a bag (in a bag that is usually used for 100 lbs of feed). This is beautiful clean top soil. This offer will only last so long because we will be leveling the manure pile this August when its dry enough to get a dozer in there.

11. Someone to do dozer work on the farm, level arena/round pen, do terracing on the hill sides to keep water out of the barns and level the top soil and manure pile to increase the level of that land in that bottom so we can put our methane digester in and indoor arena. Volunteer or at a reduced cost.

Reporting Neglect:

Please, if you see neglect (ribs and hip bones showing or no food available), its critical to call the sheriff of the county where the horse/animal is located. Have the address where the horse is located or directions to the farm, pictures and the owners name (if possible). If the sheriff does nothing email our cruelty case workers Tom and Ruby Fleming at tomfleming64@cebridge.net or email PETA's cruelty case workers Stephanie or Tori at sbell@peta.org, or ToriP@peta.org Remember horses can not speak for themselves so we must speak for them!! All reports are kept anonymous.

Getting Help for Your Horses/animals if you can not care for them:

If you can not feed your animals, whether they are horses or other animals, if you are adopters, call SWAP HQ immediately, if not, call your local horse rescue and plead for help, if they are full then call your animal control officer or sheriff to release ownership of your animals so they can get them help Before they are starved to death, do not wait until they are starved, its critical to get help early. Contact us if you do not know what to do. call 304-873-3532 or email secondwindadopt@aol.com. Many counties have pet pantries so you can get feed when times are tough. If things are getting tight with costs, go to a less expensive grain like a simple stock pellet supplemented with corn, according to Ohio State Corn is the leading horse feed in the US according to their research, many large equine schools and large farms feed these all natural feeds because of what they get for the price, a lot of negative stuff has been written about corn but no one can support it with actual proof and research. We feed a simple all stock pellet from southern states and we supplement with cracked corn for those who need more calories, here is the link:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/b
762/b762_7.htm

TOP TEN WAYS YOU CAN HELP PROTECT HORSES
(ASPCA and SWAP Suggestions)

1.  BE THEIR VOICE - your vote is your greatest weapon against injustice, so register and actively support horse protection and preservation legislation.

2.  LEAD BY EXAMPLE - Walk the talk.  Don't support or attend cruel horse activities such as Tennessee Walker events using "soring" techniques - painful techniques to make the horse walk a certain way, or events that use drugs to make horses achieve results.  High-diving horse acts are cruel, as are rodeo events that don't promote respect for animals and their health.

3.  BE AN INFORMED CONSUMER - products made from horses like Premarin (pregnant mare urine pills for estrogen replacement), are created through horses' suffering.  Your spending dollar is a weapon.

4.  SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE - inform people what happens to horses after their short careers are over (slaughter plant bound), or where Premarin comes from, talk to them about over breeding, the hazards of over using young horses or not training a horse.  Engage them in discussion.

5.  SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL HORSE RESCUE OR SANCTUARY - these organizations make life better for horses.

6.  VOLUNTEER - your gift of time is valuable to horse groups and if you have special talents, so much the better.

7.  REPORT CRUELTY - if you witness abuse or neglect, report it to local animal control or your county sheriff.  Someone cruel to animals is cruel to humans, too.

8.  PROTECT THE AMERICAN WILD HORSE - mustangs have a special place in our history and you can support federal and local legislation by writing emails and letters to your government reps.

9.  KEEP YOUR HORSE SAFE AND HEALTHY - if you own a horse, maintain its health with regular hoof, medical and dental check-ups.  Make sure they are companioned as horses suffer living alone - even a goat makes a good companion. Feed what the horse needs, if you are seeing ribs and hip bones, the horse is not getting enough, if you can't afford to buy more feed, then give the horse to someone who can, just be sure to check the person out and make sure they are not selling the horse to slaughter or just going to turn out and sell the horse to anyone that has the money. .

10.  PLAN AHEAD FOR YOUR HORSE'S CARE - your health and finances change so what happens to your horse of you can't care for it anymore?  Research your options, including a pet trust.  Horses live into their mid 20s and early 30s now - that's a lifetime of commitment.

Crossed Sabers Stable:

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As many as 60 million visitors per year

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As many as 530,000 hits in one day

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Visitors from 113 different countries

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Website Visitors from every continent of the world

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Thousands of adoptions (of 68 different breeds) in homes today with SWAP

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Horses adopted in 46 states and Canada

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14 Year History

Preparing for a Cold Winter:

HAY: Get your hay now before the prices become outrageous, get enough for the winter (good planning is 2 bales for every 3 days for one horse or 10 bales per month per horse, so to make it until the middle of June (first cutting), you're looking at 90 bales per horse at the very least (from September to June). If you have good thick grass that has been mowed and fertilized then depending on where you live in the US you might just need 60 to 70 bales. For good grazing its recommended  that you have 3 to 5 acres of mowed, seeded, fertilized grass per horse. Remember Grass is dead in WV from Oct/Nov until about April and every state has some months where the grass does not give the horses their calories or nutrients it needs to sustain life (USDA has details of that for each state). They may be grazing in the winter but they are not getting anything from the grass to survive. I know most know that but I say it because we had an adopter last year in WV that thought if they were eating grass that was all they needed and she nearly killed 2 horses.

GRAIN: Remember on average horses need 1 lb of concentrated feed (grain) for every 100 lbs of body weight, so on average horses need about 10 lbs of grain a day, more when its very cold or if they are living outside in a run because much of their calories go to keeping them warm. Some  horses need more so its critical to watch to make sure their ribs and hip bones are staying meaty and covered. If you see ribs, the horse is too thin and needs more calories, not supplements but more calories.. Easy keepers may be round but it does not mean they are healthy, most easy keepers need a multi vitamin to stay healthy.

WATER: One of the most critical things needed in winter is clean fresh water all the time, anywhere from 5 to 20 gallons per day per horse and everyone knows what a pain that is when there is ice and snow on the ground but its critical to preventing colic. Get your electric heaters, defrosters now, heated buckets, what ever it takes to make sure they have good water in front of them all the time and at least 10 gallons (2 flat backed buckets at the very least). Here we keep 100 gallons troughs in the stalls since we have big stalls, its much easier than frozen buckets in winter, all we do is break the ice and remove it most days and put a heater in them on really cold days. We use a sump pump to empty water and scrub troughs each week which keeps water fresh and clean.

SHELTER: Domestic horses need shelter, they are not wild and can not survive outside without shelter or some kind of heavy waterproof rug to keep them warm during snow/ice and freezing temperatures but the best is a closed in shelter that is free from drafts (meaning its closed on all 4 sides with some sort of ventilation). Wild horses first of all don't live very long, living outside in the elements is very hard on them, secondly wild horses move in cold temperatures to keepselves warm and they often times move over thousands of acres to keep warm or to find cover or water. No domestic horse can not do that on 5, 20 or even 100 acres. Just because your horse has learned to survive in bad weather does not mean its good for them, they need shelter in bad weather.

CARE: Its important to make kids take care of their horses but they must have adult supervision on a daily basis to make sure horses are getting what they need. Trust me, I usually have 30 year olds working in our barn and I still have to be there daily to make sure things are done, that they have clean water, especially when its cold because our young helpers want to get out of the weather and then the horses are left at risk for colic. Every day check your child's work, do not leave your horses care to a child (completely).

The  Woman  I will  Be

I shall wear diamonds and a wide brimmed straw hat with ribbons and flowers on it
And I shall spend my social security on white wine and carrots
And sit in the alley of my barn and listen to my horses breathe.  
I will sneak out in the middle of a summer's night  And ride the dappled mare across the moonstruck meadow, if my old bones will allow. and when people come to call, I will smile and nod, As I walk them past the gardens to the barn And show, instead, the flowers growing there
In stalls fresh-lined with straw. I will shovel and sweat and wear hay in my hair as if it were a jewel. And I will be an embarrassment of all who look down on me Who have not yet found the peace in being free To love a horse as a friend, a friend who waits at midnight hour
With muzzle and nicker and patient eyes For the Woman I will be when I am old.

The perfect analogies for why we have the life school tied into SWAP and animal welfare work:

"Everyone thought we took this broken down horse and saved him but really he saved us"

     Jockey Red Pollard from the movie Seabiscuit

I rescued a human today

Her eyes met mine as she walked down the corridor peering apprehensively into the kennels. I felt her need instantly and knew I had to help her. I wagged my tail, not too exuberantly, so she wouldn't be afraid.

As she stopped at my kennel I blocked her view from a little accident I had in the back of my cage. I didn't want her to know that I hadn't been walked today. Sometimes the shelter keepers get too busy and I didn't want her to think poorly of them.

As she read my kennel card I hoped that she wouldn't feel sad about my past. I only have the future to look forward to and want to make a difference in someone's life.

She got down on her knees and made little kissy sounds at me.
I shoved my shoulder and side of my head up against the bars to comfort her.

Gentle fingertips caressed my neck; she was desperate for companionship. A tear fell down her cheek and I raised my paw to assure her that all would be well.

Soon my kennel door opened and her smile was so bright that I instantly jumped into her arms. I would promise to keep her safe. I would promise to always be by her side. I would promise to do everything I could to see that radiant smile and sparkle in her eyes.

I was so fortunate that she came down my corridor.
So many more are out there who haven't walked the corridors.
So many more to be saved. At least I could save one.

I rescued a human today.

Baggage
by Evelyn Colbath

Now that I'm home, bathed, settled and fed,
All nicely tucked into my warm new bed,
I would like to open my baggage,
Lest I forget
There is so much to carry -
So much to forget.

Hmm, Yes, here it is, right on the top
Let's unpack Loneliness, Heartache and Loss,
And there by my halter hides Fear & Shame
As I look on these things I have tried so hard to leave-
I still have to unpack my baggage called Pain.

I loved them, the others, the ones who left me,
But I wasn't good enough - for they didn't want me.
Will you add to my baggage?
Will you help me unpack?
Or will you just look at my things
And take me right back?

Do you have the time to help me unpack?
To put away my baggage,
To never re-pack?
I pray that you do - I'm so tired you see,
But I do come with baggage -
Will you still want me?

A young boy was walking along the beach 
as high tide came in.  
With every crash of the waves
he noticed that dozens of seahorses were being cast onto the beach, 
where they lay gasping and squirming.  
Hurriedly, he ran to each seahorse he could find 
and gently tossed them back into the surf.  
A man watching all this approached the boy and said; 
"Son, what you are doing won't make a difference", 
to which the boy replied, 

"To that seahorse . . . it will".

Some folks said they missed my great goals list for 2010, so here it is back again

1. Spend an hour a day with your horses, not just feeding, training and turning out, but real quality time doing something that is enjoyable for the both of you. Grooming or hand walking is a great way to bond with your horse and good for both you and the horse.

2. Get your loved ones more involved in your horses. Divorce is the biggest reason we see horses coming back to us. Don't just share the work, share the fun too and find something they really enjoy doing with horses.

3. Learn a new discipline, go to a clinic, a horse show, or equine affaire. Come to one of our clinics or watch a training video. If you are an adopter you can check out books and video's from SWAP's Library for just shipping costs. Take a lesson at least once a month or Bring your adoption horse here and we will help you. The better you are, the more fun you will have.

4. Make a plan for your horse after you are gone or if you have a major injury, let your Will Executor know your plans. Make a plan for emergencies or financial bumps along the way for your horse. Have a plan if you or your horse gets injured, even for the tough times of year like winter (or summer down south and for a drought winter when hay prices skyrocket). Ask friends, family and neighbors to be part of your plan, most people that don't have horses or a farm love the idea of getting away and helping. And people can not resist someone when they are asking for help for the welfare of an innocent animal.

5. Get yourself healthy and in better shape to prevent injury, to live a long life and to more enjoy your horses. Eat 1-1-1 (one ounce of dark chocolate, one ounce of fresh walnuts, one glass of red wine daily) and 2-2-2 (2 servings of fresh vegis, 2 of fresh fruit and get 2 sources of fat free calcium). Drink 100 ounces of spring water a day, get a whole house water filter. Change over to Sea-salt. Take one teaspoon of apple cider vinegar every morning to keep your body alkaline (cancer and disease can not grow in an alkaline body). Eat more fish and chicken and less red meat. Get a good air cleaner and do daily deep breathing exercises, get outside in the fresh air and sunshine for at least 1/2 hour every day. Get away from high fat food, processed foods, fast food, can or boxed food, sugar or artificial sweeteners, soda and don't eat anything if you can't read all the ingredients and know exactly what is in it. Clean all vegis and fruits thoroughly, buy organic, buy ocean caught fish, not farm raised, buy fresh meat and raw milk, not packed or processed. Eat only natural carbs (potatoes, rice, oats) bake/broil or steam everything. Get 8 hours of sleep, reduce stress/risk (reduce commuting by car pooling, tight schedules, cell phone use in the car, watch or read the news only once a day or better yet once a week. Do one hour of walking, yoga or weight training every day and it will make you strong, lean, you'll look great and get wonderful complements from friends, coworkers and loved ones and the horse work will be easier and more enjoyable.

6. Stay clear of negative people and those very negative chat rooms and bulletin boards, they seem innocent but every time you go to them you lose a bit of your positive self, they are truly emotional vampires that will leave only a shell of a person. They are not based on the truth, they are based on harassment, complaining, whining and dishonesty. We all become tomorrow what we are around today, every person we come in contact with defines who we are tomorrow so be careful who you choose for friends, even the websites you go to as each of them affect who you are tomorrow. Do you want to be a bitter, miserable, complaining person or do you want to be happy, inspired and honorable, all that is affected by the decisions you make today. Stay away from Toxic people and Toxic websites/forums that are negative or that spend all their time talking bad about people and their horses. What you are around today and what you are doing today is what you will be tomorrow. Stop Complaining and be Thankful for what you have. If you become a target of harassment or anyone saying anything negative about you, if you are doing only good, positive things and not hurting anyone then ignore them, its all based on jealousy and a sick sort of wish to be like you. They have the problem, not you.

7. Read at least one book on training your horse and one on care each year, if for nothing else but just inspiration. SWAP has a great library of books/videos that adopters can check out for just the cost of mailing it. Click here to see our Library

8. Get carrots/apples every time you go to the store, your horses will love you for it and always come running when you call. Don't feed candy or anything sweeter. Carrots are sweet enough. Get rid of the sweet feeds and you'll get rid of the hot horse once and for all.

9. Realize that if you are having a problem with your horse, more likely than not, the problem is you. Learn more, practice more, ask in a different way, be patient, change their environment or daily schedule to better suit them. Taking better care of a horse always brings out the best in that horse.  Good feed/hay, time to rest in a quiet stall out of the elements, lots of fresh water, time to be with you and time to just be a horse, time with their buddies, farrier and vet care always done is a good start. The biggest part of this relationship puzzle is you, not the horse. If you are struggling, then you need to learn more and get better.

10. Ride at least once a week, regardless of weather. Use this time as your down time for healing, your therapy, your time to relieve stress and the pressures of daily life. Even if you don't ride, go sit and read a book in the pasture with the horses or sit in the barn and listen to them munch on dinner, away from the crowd and noise of your day. Enjoy the peace and quiet, enjoy hearing happy horses eating dinner or grass in the pasture.

11. Spend time leisurely grooming your horse once a week. Rubber curries are shine makers. You will have a beautiful horse and a very loyal friend who will do anything for you.

12. Come and spend a week at SWAP HQ, volunteering and focusing on helping a horse and giving will change your life plus it will be the best vacation you ever had. Help an animal in need, whether fostering, being one of our state reps that goes out to check on our horses in their homes or helps us approve adopters in their area. Find horses in need and help us find them homes. Buy a horse at a slaughter auction, get it fat and trained and we'll help you place it into a good home. Foster and volunteer for your local small animal adoption program. I promise, the good things you do will come back to you a hundred times over. Every person has a talent they can offer and if you help one horse or one dog or cat find a good home, you have changed their life forever. 

13. Know that every goal is obtainable and it starts with a single step. Take that first step today!! No matter what it is or how big, YOU CAN DO IT!! Every goal that is written down will come true (really!). Every famous person, every great or notable scientist, author, trainer/rider, parent or friend started out as just a thought, just a goal. Remember to take one step today to reach your goals.

14. Start every day with thinking about, what is the most important thing I can do today to change my life and make it better. Do that one thing and in 30 days your life will be totally different. Can you imagine what your life would be like if you did that for 60, 90 or even 365 days a year. The opportunities are endless.

15. Want to keep your horse sound for life? (That should be every horse owners number one goal) do a long slow warm up (cold muscle is easy to injure, a warm one is nearly impossible to injure). The very best cool down is hand walking your horse for 1 hour after every work out. Yes, get off the horse and walk with it. Its great exercise for you and a good time for you to bond. Stop riding your horse during cool downs and stop using a hot walker, do something good for you and the horse, hand walking. Its also the best rehab for over work and injuries, the only thing better is hydro therapy and swimming your horse. Allow soft tissue and hard tissue to become more conditioned before going into any training program... that means 3 months of at least 3 days a week for soft tissues and 10 months of work for bones to become strong enough to jump or do any strenuous training program. Don't start any upper level work, jumping or extensive training until the horse is fit and at least between age 4 and 6 and has been conditioned for at least 10 months (especially if the horse has never been jumped/worked or not been jumped or worked in the last year).

16. Appreciate what you have and be thankful. Instead of looking at what you don't have, look at what you do. Thank those people who have helped you and supported you. The more you give, the more that will come back to you. When you give something away or give something to someone/something in need, you make space in your life for something good to come to you. We are all very blessed, if we just take a moment to look around and enjoy those things.

17. Get used to using favorite mantra's and visualizations every day, simple ones that are easy to remember, like 'I can do this, I will do this', 'this isn't going to get the best of me' or even, 'I deserve the best' or 'the gift of love, caring, and support always comes back' and take two minutes every morning as you wake and at night as you go to sleep to visualize the life you want, the you you want to be,  Our thoughts become things, what you see is what you get, if you expect the best, the best will happen, change your self-talk from negative to positive and I promise your life will change for the better..

18. Each person is put on this earth for a reason, each of us has a mission. What is yours? Seek and you shall find, finding is a journey ... in the journey and the search you'll find your life purpose. If you died in your sleep tonight is there something you haven't done that you need to do or want to do? Someone you need to mend fences with, burnt bridges to fix? People you need to tell them how much you love them? Have you fulfilled your purpose in your life? Ask yourself, Why am I here? How can I make this better?  Who do I want to be? Who am I suppose to be? What reason was I put on this earth? What is my purpose?

19. Be an inspiration to your family, co workers and friends. We all fall on our face, we all make mistakes, we all get discouraged, most times we all get up and try again.... sometimes we need a nudge. Instead of being negative or doing negative things, be their inspiration. You do believe they can do it, so why not tell them. If their self talk is negative, then you be their positive self talk.... eventually they will start to say it and believe it too. Life is self fulfilling, failure feeds on itself or causes more failure, achieving does as well. So if you or your love ones are in a negative cycle, break the cycle by changing your thoughts, your self talk, achieve something small to get yourself and your family back into the cycle of achievement.

20. We all file a flight plan every single day for our life. Where is your flight going today? Just like a pilot flying, the winds, the gravitational pull will change your flight and take you off course, so you must make small corrections along the way to make sure you make your destination. Have you selected your destination? Have you picked the steps in your flight plan to get there? Every goal is really that easy, pick the goal and figure out how to get there. The easiest way to pick your flight path/plan is find someone who has done it before you, then do what they did. Its all baby steps you know. Just keep an eye on that destination and keep saying...."here is my destination, this is where I'm going, this is where I am now, this is how I'm going to get there.... I will arrive at this time on this day. You can do it..... its just like getting in your car to go to the store, its just deciding where you want to go and how to get there, then take that first step. You can do it!!  No matter how big or how outlandish you may think your dream to be... it is obtainable.

21. Laugh every day and try (as hard as it is sometimes) to find the positive and the humor in each situation (and have at least one bite of a truly decadent desert once a week). Life is just too short to not enjoy it thoroughly.

22. We learn the most and do our best work when we have fallen on our face, when we are struggling, when we are worried, scared or frustrated, when we are anguishing over something or troubled by it. It is then that you have true motivation, when you think clearer. The most brilliant ideas come to people when they feel lost, frustrated, or at the bottom, helpless or hopeless. Cherish these times because its when you can come up with your best ideas to your biggest problems and challenges. You see, there is a reason for the rainy days.

23. You can't make everyone happy, its useless to try and wasted energy to think you can. 50% of all people will not agree with you at any given time, don't worry about it and don't let it stop you. 50% becomes a lot of people when you are in the public eye. As long as you are not hurting anyone and you are doing the right thing, then go ahead and do it. If you are wondering what is the right thing to do, its usually the harder thing to do, the toughest path to take. The easy way out is rarely the right thing to do.  Instead of worrying over what someone thinks of you or says about you, do something amazing and outstanding to inspire them or at least have them sitting on the side lines being jealous, secretly saying, "wow, she has guts". One person with purpose becomes the majority, one way or another.

1. There are at least two people in this world That you would die for.
 
2. At least 15 people in this world Love you in some way.
  
3. The only reason anyone would ever hate you Is because they want to Be just like you.
  
4. A smile from you can bring happiness to anyone, Even if they don't Like you.
  
5. Every night, SOMEONE thinks about you Before they go to sleep.
 
6. You mean the world to someone.
  
7. You are special and unique.
 
8. Someone that you don't even know exists, loves you.
  
9. When you make the biggest mistake ever, Something good comes from it.   

10. When you think the world has
Turned its back on you, take another look.
  
11. Always remember the compliments you received. Forget about the rude remarks.

Always in hope and admiration, Celeita

YOUR BANK ACCOUNT  
A 92-year-old, petite, well-poised and proud man, who is fully dressed each morning by eight o'clock, with his hair fashionably combed and shaved perfectly, even though he is legally blind, moved to a nursing home today. His wife of 70 years recently passed away, making the move necessary. After many hours of waiting patiently in the lobby of the nursing home, he smiled sweetly when told his room was ready.
As he maneuvered his walker to the elevator, I provided a visual description of his tiny room, including the eyelet sheets that had been hung on his window.
'I love it,' he stated with the enthusiasm of an eight-year-old having just been presented with a new puppy.
'Mr. Jones, you haven't seen the room; just wait.'
'That doesn't have anything to do with it,' he replied.
'Happiness is something you decide on ahead of time. Whether I like my room or not doesn't depend on how the furniture is arranged .. it's how I arrange my mind. I already decided to love it. 'It's a decision I make every morning when I wake up. I have a choice; I can spend the day in bed recounting the difficulty I have with the parts of my body that no longer work, or get out of bed and be thankful for the ones that do.
Each day is a gift, and as long as my eyes open, I'll focus on the new day and all the happy memories I've stored away. Just for this time in my life.
Old age is like a bank account. You withdraw from what you've put in.
So, my advice to you would be to deposit a lot of happiness in the bank account of memories!
Thank you for your part in filling my Memory bank.
I am still depositing.' Remember the five simple rules to be happy:
1. Free your heart from hatred.
2. Free your mind from worries.
3. Live simply.
4. Give more.
5. Expect less.

 Our lives with horses...

Our lives with horses are rich with feeling.  You know  this if  you've ever.... choked back tears watching a new foal wobble to his feet for the First time ...or watched your good horse wobble to his feet after surgery.... or seen the ends of the reins float straight out as a reining  horse spins beneath them . . or chuckled to yourself as you watched a tiny tot on a patient pony trot through a barrel pattern at a saddle club payday ... or felt the building tremble as an eight-up hitch of feather-legged giants towed a hand-carved beer wagon into the arena ... or had your heart stop when you saw your horse lying motionless in the pasture on a sunny day and waited breathlessly for an ear to flick ... or cheered at the screen when 'The Man From Snowy River' slid Dennie down the mountainside, ..  or when Seabiscuit made his final surge to beat War Admiral ... or cruised along the highway and seen a horse in a pasture and wondered what he's like to ride or pictured him as a prospect ... or sucked in your breath as a horse and rider approached a six-foot wall ... or sworn a solemn oath to your horse that together you would triumph ... or flipped through the TV channels and stopped when you saw a  horse even when it was a commercial ... or laughed aloud when you rubbed your horse's face and he rubbed back ... or gotten chills hearing Dave Johnson's 'and DOWN THE STRETCH THEY COME!' (or 'Run for the Roses' circa 1980 ish?)
 ... or stood in awe at your horse in morning play as  he sprinted around the pasture, then stopped, head erect, and snorted defiance at the rest of the world
... or been thankful to see wild horses grazing casually at the foot of a hill ... or felt calmed by the sleekness of a silky
haircoat beneath your hand ... or felt your jaw drop as you watched a Lipazzan
perform a capriole ... or if you've ever seen someone in the grocery store wearing a certain kind of hat, or boots, or buckle, or have a certain cut and length to their jeans, and felt some remote kind of connection ... or felt warmed by a soft nicker greeting as you entered the barn ... or slid your hand under your horse's blanket to straighten it out, only to pause in the glowing feeling that you get when you touch the
warmth of his coat... or riding on a trail with your horse, thinking how that trail over there looks nice and almost without asking, your horse has sensed your slightest movement in the saddle and he's now taking you there. ... or pulled up to your barn where you board and only your horse greets you with a welcoming hello from the sound of your car or your voice.

HEROES AND HORSES

SOME NOTABLE HEROES AND THEIR HORSES ARE MENTIONED AND WE KNOW YOUR HORSE IS YOUR HERO AND VICE VERSA.

1.  Kanthaka - Buddha's horse, the one he used when he was still Siddhartha the prince, to escape from his father's palace and begin his journey toward enlightenment.  Kanthaka's hooves made no sounds as they fled together and he is often depicted being lifted on his four feet by benign spirits.

2.  Pegasus - the mythical winged horse parented by Neptune and Medusa and ridden by Bellerophon to rid the world of Chimera, the monster.  Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, was able to capture and train Pegasus when he allowed her to place her golden bit in his mouth.

3.  Phosphorus (Light Bearer) - the great Roman racehorse immortalized by the 4th century Roman poet Ausonius (at the emperor's request) in a beautiful eulogy:  Fly with haste to join the wing-footed horses of Elysium; may Pegasus gallop on your right and Arion as your left-wheeler, and let Castor find a fourth horse for the team.

4.  Babieca - famed white gelding of El Cid, Rodrigo Diaz of Bivar, the Spanish hero who united Christians and Muslims against a Moorish onslaught from Africa.  Babieca lived to be 30 years old and carried El Cid into all his battles.  Babieca means "crazy" as Rodrigo made a crazy choice since the colt was the runt of the herd.

5.  Bucephalus (Ox-head) - beloved horse of Alexander the Great who bore the Macedonian hero on his back from Greece to India.  Odds against a horse living past 20 in that era were great, but Bucephalus, in his 20s, endured until he fell in battle in India.

6.  Sleipnir - the eight-legged war horse of Odin, the Norse god,  was able to fly without wings and shape-shift.

7.  Balios and Xanthos - a grey and bay, both sired by Zephyros, the West Wind, who together pulled Achilles' chariot.

8.  Vivasat - a Hindu sun-god who often took the form of a stallion.

9.  Al Burak - Mohammed's horse, on whose back he ascended to heaven, was brought to him by the archangel Gabriel

10.  Chiron - the centaur who taught Achilles, Jason and the first physician, Ascelpius, all he knew.

11.  Rakhsh - blue-eyed and dappled red horse of the legendary Persian warrior, Rustam.  Rakhsh was highly intelligent and saved his sleeping master from a lion's attack, killing the predator.

There are many more famous mythical and real horses and we will be adding to our list. Can you help us add to this list?. thank you Harmony Horse Works.

The question is not: "do you support horse slaughter."

The question is: "do you support the cruel, terrifying transport for days without food and water in their journey to death?"

The question is: "do you support the torture and abuse of the killer chutes, even for crippled horses, pregnant mares, wild horses, protective mares with foals by their sides?"

The question is: “Do you support the horse slaughter factories that lie to their consumers about the many chemicals that taint the horse meat, and call it Organic?

The question is: do you support the breeder who breeds hundreds of horses just to pick out the good ones and cash in the rest to the killer buyer?

The question is: Do you support the person who uses the horse its whole life and when it gets to an old age sends it to slaughter as a thank you?

The question is: “do you support the slaughter workers who cheer a horse on that struggles extra hard for its life?

The question is: Do you support the killer buyer who not only buys up the strong, fat and healthy horses and leaves the meek weak and unhealthy for society, but also bids against the good homes and horse rescues?

The question is: “Can you see though the lies of the ones who stand to loose a buck with the end of horse slaughter?

The question is: Do you support ripping the last of our wild horses away from their families and peaceful lives to be slaughtered?

The question is: As a nation, can we allow this to continue and still call ourselves a civilized country?

The question is: "Can you look at the footage of innocent horses with their eyes gouged out, hooves ripped off, legs broken, beaten by the workers, faces smashed in from being on the transport trucks, horses stabbed in their spines, horses conscious for the entire killing process and do nothing?

That is the question, so what is YOUR answer?

Resolve to make the world a better place for animals (credit: PETA)

bulletIf you haven't already done so, have the companion animals who depend on you spayed or neutered. These simple procedures help protect your furry friends from many types of cancer and prevent thousands of animals from being born only to end up abandoned on the streets or dumped at severely crowded animal shelters.
bulletIf you live with a dog, pledge to walk him or her every day, even when it's cold outside and you'd rather hide under a blanket. If you share your home with cats, set aside some "kitty (or horsey) quality time" every day to play with, brush, and bond with them. It's sometimes too easy to overlook our feline friends, but they can get bored and lonely too.
bulletIf there is a lonely "backyard dog" in your neighborhood, try befriending his or her guardian. Start by politely talking to him or her about the dog's needs, such as companionship, daily portions of fresh food and water, and a weatherproof doghouse filled with straw. Many lucky dogs have had their lives changed because someone like you cared enough to intervene.
bulletIf you're shopping for yourself or buying holidays gifts for your loved ones, stay away from fur, wool, leather, and companies that make or sell products made from the skins of animals.

NOTE: Crossed Sabers can not fully guarantee the accuracy of every page on this website which is huge (38,000 files and over 300 pages). We do not have the personnel or time to keep it up to date and accurate for every situation as this Stable and all its programs have always been a dynamic entity, ever changing and improving itself to meet the needs of horses and horse people. We do try to make sure each page is up to date and accurate but the best thing to do If you have a question, is email or call us. Additionally Crossed Sabers can not guarantee anything that anyone says about us on line, we have no control over other people and their websites, forums or ads, all we can tell people is if you do not know the person, their name, address and their experience, age or history/background/education and location do not trust what they say. That is true for everything on the internet. Some things said about us have been grossly inaccurate and did not come from CSS, some come from past employees we fired for cause (for hurting horses or stealing from us), people that are pro-slaughter and hate our mission and what we do for horses enjoy trying to make us look bad, some are horse traders that we've helped put out of business and some are people we helped put in jail on neglect cases. Again, if you have questions about us, our services, our company structure, how we are licensed, how we pay taxes, how we do things or anything at all, please feel free to contact us, just don't assume that all you read on another website is accurate because 99% of it is not true, especially if you read it on a forum, blog or chat room and don't assume that it came from us, just call 304-873-3532 or email us at secondwindadopt@aol.com, or better yet, come and see our operation and you will see how we do things. I can guarantee it's 1000 times better than what the liars and frauds say who are jealous of our work. All programs and services listed on this website, including SWAP is a part of Crossed Sabers Stable which has been licensed in WV for the last 13 years. The Mountain State Horse School and Second Wind Adoption Program, Inc. and Crossed Sabers International Horse School, Inc. was incorporated on 4 Sep 08 to address the education needs and life challenges of people and horses.

Buyer and Seller Beware!! Update on the Robin Hollingsworth of Blacksburg, SC (she has several alias's and about 10 fake names) fraud case for those of you who have been asking. The SC prosecutor accepted a plea bargain from her and dropped the case if she paid the people she ripped off (the people she took money under false pretenses from when she sold them horses she did not own), she did that so she was let go but the 3 arrests will stay on her record and the record of what she did to all those people is still on the books and will stay there. If she is caught again I'm certain she will go to jail but people who are cheated by her must stand up and testify.. If more people that she ripped off would have not chickened out and backed out because of fear (Quote from them was we are scared of her, she is crazy) she would be in jail right now but beware, she is still loose and still taking free horses or companion horses that have things like ringbone and navicular and drugging them and then selling them as high level jumpers and competition horses on the internet. Her daughter works with her, Amanda or Mandy, she helps her rip people off. Beware, I'm getting calls almost every month where Robin has committed more crimes against people, taking horses, not paying for them, bouncing checks, buying vehicles and horse trailers and not paying for them. BEWARE OF THIS WOMAN!! If you want her history or to check a person's name against our black list (our do not adopt to, do not sell to, do not buy from, do not hire or even rent to list), then contact us.

BEWARE: Do not buy a horse from anyone you do not know, ESPECIALLY ON THE INTERNET, unless they have websites like ours, their names and addresses listed and they show they have a long long history on their website and do not buy unless you go to see the horse and have it vet checked and you have contact with the vet, not the seller or even trainer telling you what the vet said. DO NOT GIVE YOUR HORSE OR SELL YOUR HORSE WITHOUT A WRITTEN AGREEMENT AS TO WHAT IS TO HAPPEN WITH THE HORSE, RESELLING, USE/LIMITATIONS, FACILITIES NEEDED, ETC. It you sell or give away a horse with no agreement, they could go to slaughter the same day you release them or they could be sold and misrepresented, living a life of neglect, abuse, over use and miss use the rest of their lives. We hear stories all the time where a best friend or neighbor, the nice lady you gave the horse to sent the horse to slaughter or is neglecting it and there is not a thing the owner can do now because they no longer own the horse and they made no written agreements signed by both parties. If you need help doing written agreements, back ground checks on buyers and sellers, just contact us, that is part of our 'SAFE SELLING' SERVICES. Your horse's life depends on you being safe and thorough!

BEWARE: People are selling horses on the internet that don't even exist so beware, the horse industry is full is liars, cheaters, and thieves, even we have had to deal with them from potential adopters who were in jail applying to adopt, to employees and former trainers who totally ripped us off by stealing tack and tools, asking for huge advances and then leaving after they get them, people who don't even know us or had any experience with us slandering us on forums, harassing us and our supporters, interfering with company operations and even adopters who don't think twice about breaching their contract or forging their vets signature on applications & annual updates or even selling their adoption horse to programs like ours and even 501c3's public charities selling horses to slaughter auctions or being put in jail for neglect and animal cruelty. We are bringing each person that has wronged our horses to justice one at a time and winning all our cases but that does not protect the general public from these liars, thieves, con-artist and cheaters. Your horses life can easily be ruined forever, they could end up in a fate worse than death so buyer and seller beware, your horses life depends on you keeping them safe and you being thorough with doing things like getting references and making sure the people have stable employment, that they really own the farm they say they do, doing background checks to check for criminal records. The horse world is full of dishonesty which ruins it for honest people that really care and always try to do the right thing, such a shame. Just be very careful and get proof that your horse is going to a good home, get more than a feeling because we promise you about 50% of the time when it comes to horses, your feeling that its a 'nice' person or a 'good' person' is wrong. And even when you pick a good home, they can turn around and sell or give away to a bad home.

HOW TO STAY YOUNG

1. Throw out nonessential numbers. This includes age, weight and height. Let the doctors worry about them. That is why you pay 'them'

2. Keep only cheerful friends. The grouches and negative people pull you down. People who like to cause trouble will shorten your life and make you just like them... miserable.

3. Keep learning. Learn more about the computer, crafts, gardening, whatever. Never let the brain idle. 'An idle mind is the devil's workshop.'

4. Enjoy the simple things.

5. Laugh often, long and loud. Laugh until you gasp for breath.

6. The tears happen.. Endure, grieve, and move on. The only person, who is with us our entire life, is ourselves. Be ALIVE while you are alive.

7. Surround yourself with what you love , whether it's family, pets, keepsakes, music, plants, hobbies, whatever. Your home is your refuge.

8. Cherish your health: If it is good, preserve it. If it is unstable, improve it. If it is beyond what you can improve, get help.

9. Don't take guilt trips. Take a trip to the mall, even to the next county; to a foreign country but NOT to where the guilt is.

10. Tell the people you love that you love them, at every opportunity.

AND ALWAYS REMEMBER
:
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but  by the moments that take our breath away

 

BRIDLE & BIT

SELECTION & FIT

What difference does a Bridle Make?
Much is made of the almost infinite variety of bits available and their various actions.  The bridle may sometimes be overlooked as simply the leather by which a bit is hung on a horse but it is more than that and we shall look at some of the different types of bridle, in particular nosebands, and their uses

Of course, the choice of a bridle often comes down to personal preference.  The difference between two bridles of similar type will be the look and quality of workmanship.  The size and shape of a horse's head can be complimented by a bridle which flatters the horse's features.  Bridle's can be as much fashionable as functional and often were ornately adorned to reflect the riders wealth and status.

Fitting a Bridle Correctly - Browband, Throatlash and Cheek piecesConnect to the Internet if you can't see this image.

The three main pieces of any bridle that must fit a horse are the browband, which stops the bridle from slipping down the horse's neck, the throatlash (or throat latch) which stops the bridle from being pulled forward over the ears and the cheek pieces, which attach to the head piece and the bit.  The noseband (cavesson) is discussed below as this is the main difference between the various bridle types.

The browband must fit without pinching and causing discomfort.  This can be of particular importance for warmblood types or horses with wider foreheads, and you may need to ask your saddler if the browband from a new bridle may be swapped for another if it doesn't fit properly. The throatlash should allow at least several fingers to pass between it and the horse.  In particuar make sure that the horse is able to flex without throttling itself, if in doubt, allow this to be a little loose. 
 

Types of Bridle
When discussing types of bridle we will in fact be mainly talking about different types of noseband, used with a plain snaffle bridle.

The Snaffle Bridle

The snaffle bridle is a simple bridle for a snaffle bit.  In its most simplistic form it has noBridle with dropped noseband. noseband at all.  The Bridle with cavesson nosebandcavesson noseband is commonly fitted although it is largely there for appearance's sake since it does not perform any function (with the exception of lunging) and is fitted loosely around the horses nose midway between cheek and jaw.

The dropped noseband (shown on the right) is also fairly common.  It is most often used to keep the horse's mouth shut on those horse's who try to evade the bit by opening their mouths. Be aware that shutting a horse's mouth when using a large jointed bit can cause your horse considerable discomfort in the palate and you should determine whether your horse really is evading the bit or simply opening his mouth to allow for the bit to fit in his mouth! (remember nature only allowed enough room for a tongue in there).
 
The noseband is done up more tightly than a normal cavesson and the bottom strap is passed in front of (below) the bit.  Other nosebands used for a similar purpose are the 'flash', (also called a Hanoverian)  which is a normal cavesson which has a small loop in the centre through which a second dropped noseband is attached.

 

Grackle nosebandAnd the Grackle noseband (shown left) is a forerunner of the flash noseband.  The grackle noseband crosses the horses nose quite high and then crosses again under the horse's jaw.  These two nosebands are used on horse's with a habit of opening their mouths and\or crossing their jaws to evade the bit.

Some nosebands can also be rather harsh, the Kineton Noseband has metal half rings which pass under the bit so that when a contact is taken up strong pressure is brought to bear on both the nose and the poll encouraging the horse to lower his head.

 

Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.

 

The Endurance 2-in-1 (shown left) on the other hand is designed to act as both halter and bridle.  This provides maximum functionality without wasting time changing tack during a race.

Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
The double bridle's only real difference from a snaffle is, of course, to allow for the additional bits. The only noseband accepted on a double bridle is a cavesson.double bridle

 

 

 

The Hackamore (or Bitless Bridle)
The hackamore bridle exerts pressure on on the poll, curb groove and nose.  It should be remembered that the horse cannot breath through its mouth so it is important to use gentle hands when using a hackamore.
 
The hackamore is often used in western riding prior to training a horse with specialist western style bits and is also popular in endurance riding where contact is not required as in other sports such as dressage.  The long side pieces to which the reins are attached are called shanks.  The longer the shanks on a hackamore, the more leverage is applied and therefore the more severe the action.  This also applies to western bits which often also have shanks and use some of the principles of a hackamore.

simple hackamore

Hackamore used for show jumping. The fleecy noseband additionally acts as a 'shadowroll', causing the horse drop its head slightly to see over it and reduces the nose pressure.

You can see from this close up of a fairly simple hackamore that when the reins are pulled, pressure will be applied to both the nose and poll.  This photo shows a reasonably short shank.

Basic Saddle Construction
Saddle construction, like everything else, is continually refined and takes advantage of new materials
but the basic construction of a saddle has remained very similar for many hundreds of years.
This is because the basic mechanics and aim of the saddle have remained the same; provide a secure
seat for the rider, without inhibiting the movement of the horse's shoulder blades, it must remove weight
from the horse's spine and loins and spread it evenly over the remaining area of the horse's back. 
It must also provide a secure anchor for the stirrups.
The foundation of any saddle is the saddle tree, a frame made traditionally of laminated wood but
may also be made of metal, fibreglass, plastics or high tech composite materials.  The tree is strained
(put under tension) to allow it to provide a rigid yet springy frame for the saddle material.  Many
saddles now have adjustable gullets (the area under the pommel which sits over the withers and
shapes the front of the saddle) however the tree must still correctly fit the horse's back width and shape.
There are saddles designed to fit assorted specialised roles; Dressage, Jumping, Racing (also known as flat),
Endurance, Side Saddle, Stock, Western.  General Purpose and Eventing saddles attempt to perform multiple
roles and are therefore a compromise of the best features of the specialised saddles.
Compare the 4 saddle types shown below for differences in length of flaps, depth of seat, knee roll and seat.
 
Dressage saddles have longer, straighter flaps than other saddles to allow a longer stirrup length and
closer leg contact.  They also tend to have much deeper seats, although the one shown here is not as
deep as many.  The jumping and eventing saddles tend to have more forward cut flaps, larger knee rolls
and longer trees to allow for the forward seat and shorter stirrups required by those sports.
Surcingles
A surcingle is also referred to as an over-girth.  In this case it is a webbing or elasticated belt which completely encircles the horse's belly.  A surcingle may be used with blankets to help keep them on or over saddles as additional security.  Racing saddles are a good example where surcingles are often used.
At first glance the girth may just be the strap that holds the saddle on but girths can be as  important to your
horse's performance and well being as the saddle.  There are also different types of girths to fit different types of saddles.
Dressage saddles have girth tabs near the bottom of the flaps and therefore require a much shorter girth. 
Girths generally have a dual buckle system, when fitting the saddle you choose whether to use the front, back or outside pair of girth tabs, however some dressage girths will use all three girth straps.
Girths are traditionally made from leather but leather does not provide much give, are relatively high maintenance and can be quite harsh when new.  Many are turning to synthetic girths or leather girths with elasticated inserts.  It is important not to do these up so tightly that you take up all the elasticity.  Sheepskin sleeves are also popular to provide extra comfort especially for horses with sensitive skins.
Stirrup irons are made of stainless steel and may be fitted with rubber treads to prevent the foot from slipping.  Safety stirrups are made either with one side open, fitted with a rubber ring which is strong enough for normal riding performance but will give way should the riders foot become trapped during a fall (suitable for under 12's) or with a bent side iron which also allows the foot to easily slip through.  Jointed stirrups like those shown below have flexible sides, which are easier on stiff joints.

Stirrups also come in several types and may be designed to assist correct leg and foot placement, to provide
greater safety and\or for specific sports.

Endurance riders, for instance, look for larger treads for greater comfort and sometimes enclosed toes for added safety since running shoes or other less traditional rinding footwear may be worn for greater comfort over long periods of time.

 
Saddle pads are used to give an extra layer of comfort to the horse, absorb sweat and help keep the saddle clean. 
 
They range from a simple cotton to high tech gel pads which also help with shock absorption.  The saddle pads on
race horses and eventers can also contain pockets for the lead weights which may be required to bring the rider up
to the required weight.  Newer types of pads may include air-filled pockets which can be adjusted to assist with saddle
fit and comfort, however saddle pads should not be used instead of correctly fitted saddles.
There are numerous other saddlery accessories including; saddle covers for extra rider comfort, made from sheepskin
or gel.
Covers to protect the saddle itself from the elements, such as the waterproof (but breathable) cover shown right,
can be obtained for events which may be held in tough weather conditions.
Of course there are also protective covers for storing or transporting your saddle.
 Straps for the front of your saddle, sometimes called 'sos straps' can be very useful for hacking out in rough terrain,
working without stirrups or just to give you that extra something to hang onto in an emergency.
This article is compliments of Tack In The Box.
Fitting Horse and Rider
What Type of Saddle Do You Need?
People come in various shapes and sizes and so do saddles. It's not surprising then, that not every saddle fits every rider. When the horse is added to the equation, finding the right saddle can make you wish you'd taken up tennis! I've spent a good deal of time in the last dozen or so years helping riders select the saddle that best suits them and their horse and have learned a lot in the process. Perhaps my experience can prevent you from making a very expensive mistake.
Balance
Any saddle must meet one very basic criteria in order to function as a useful tool for riding: it must be correctly balanced. This is especially true of the dressage saddle, owing to the refinement of weight and leg aids. This first drawing is an illustration we're all familiar with.
Twist
The twist of the saddle, viewed from above, is the narrowest portion of the seat, located just behind the pommel. Saddles can be broadly categorized into narrow twist and broad twist, with great variation possible within each category. The general type of twist you need depends upon the conformation of your pelvis and the way the femur is attached to it as well as the shape of the inner thigh muscle.
differences in the shape of the pelvisThe shafts of the two femurs are separated by the diameter of the pelvis and the shafts slope downward and inward to bring the knee joints near the line of gravity of the body.
Owing to the female pelvis' being shallower and wider than that of men, this inward slope tends to be greater in women (left illustration) than it is in men (right illustration) though there is considerable variation between individuals. The more knock-kneed an individual is the more the inner thigh muscle tends to be relatively round. The more nearly perpendicular the shafts of the pelvis hang, the flatter the inner thigh muscle (the reason that most men have much flatter inner thigh muscles than women and thus much less difficulty getting the thigh to lie flat against the saddle).
Let's begin by separating the boys from the girls. Figure 1 illustrates the basic skeletal differences between men and women with regard to the shape of the pelvis. As you can see, women's seat bones tend to be further apart than those of men. This can cause a problem if the twist of the saddle is too narrow. In such a case, the seat bones are not correctly positioned on top of the saddle but fit down around the saddle - a very uncomfortable position! However this is a very rare situation since the seatbones do not sit on the saddle close to the pommel, but considerably further back, where the saddle begins to broaden. In fact, the crotch pain that many riders, especially women, experience rarely has anything to do with the width between the seatbones. Instead it has everything to do with the positioning of the femur in relation to the pelvis and the shape of the muscle of the inner thigh.

Female Pelvis
In order to allow the rider to sit in a balanced position; with half of the upper body mass on either side of the vertical line bisecting shoulder, hip and heel; the stirrup bar of the saddle must be correctly placed. Male Pelvis
The stirrup leathers should hang vertically and approximately 6" or 7" forward of the deepest part of the seat.
This corresponds roughly to the measurement from the ball of the foot to the heel. The relationship of these two measurements is obvious. If the deepest part of the saddle falls more than about 7" back from the stirrup bar, the rider is encouraged to carry his leg too far forward and automatically adopts the chair seat.
Conversely, a stirrup bar placed too far rearward causes the rider to sit on the crotch. We'll talk more about balance when we discuss fitting the horse.
What has all this to do with crotch pain, you ask?
Everything.........

When the rider sits correctly in the saddle he (or she) will be supported by his seatbones, the pubic crest (crotch) and the muscles of the inner thigh. The two generalized saddle shapes are illustrated below.
Figure 5 Wide Twist                   Figure 5 - Narrow Twist
The left illustration corresponds to a broad twist saddle and the right to one with a narrow twist. The narrower the twist, the more the saddle tends to be concave on either side of the pommel. The concavity of narrow twist saddle very nicely accommodates the greater mass of a rounded thigh muscle and allows the rider to receive the proper amount of support from the thigh. A flat thigh muscle would not provide the rider of saddle Figure 5-right with any measurable amount of support until several inches down from either side of the pommel. This would result in such a rider bearing too much weight on the pubic crest and would result in much discomfort. The broader twist illustrated in Figure 5-left would support the flat inner thigh very nicely and would correctly and comfortably distribute the rider's weight.
While men tend to have the flatter inner thigh muscles associated with the need for a broader twist, because of the narrower pelvis, there is usually less distance between the shafts of the femur and thus few men will be comfortable riding a really broad twist saddle but will tend to prefer something with a more moderate twist.
 
How can you be sure the saddle fits the horse?
Balance
While there are many subtleties of saddle fit you can always be sure you're on the right track when the previously mentioned balance is present. Different brands and models of saddles may look quite different from each other when correctly fitted. Consequently, if you try to fit all saddles by applying certain rules that you've doubtless read in the myriads of saddle fit articles published in recent years, such as, cantle should be X inches higher than the pommel or, you should have X fingers' clearance at the pommel - it becomes very confusing.
Some saddles are designed to fit with the cantle substantially higher than the pommel (2" or even more) while others are designed to be nearly level, front to back. No saddle is designed to sit lower in the cantle than the pommel, however, horses with a low back conformation will sometimes be correctly fitted when the cantle does indeed sit lower than the pommel. These horses are always a challenge to ride for they can rarely be fitted with a gusset type panel and artificially raising the cantle with a "bump" pad or other device may result in a badly damaged saddle tree and is most always uncomfortable for the horse.
First things first - you must ascertain exactly where on the horse's body the saddle should sit. Horses having a lot of Thoroughbred blood are rarely difficult to decide where the saddle should sit - they have a pronounced indentation right behind the shoulder blade and if you try to place the saddle anywhere else it will quickly find its way to this "sweet spot." Unfortunately, many Warmbloods as well as other breeds such as Arabians and Morgans, frequently lack this clearly defined area. The saddle should be placed immediately behind the horse's scapula - not on top of it. To determine where the scapula is located, have someone lead your horse for you while you walk beside him with your hand on the shoulder blade. As he moves it will rotate about its axis and allow you to visualize its location. Place your saddle just behind the scapula and girth it sufficiently to hold it securely in place.Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
Keeping the rule of balance uppermost in your mind, stand to the side of your horse and draw an imaginary line through the center of the stirrup bar, perpendicular to the ground. Draw a second imaginary line through the deepest part of the seat, again perpendicular to the ground. As mentioned before, the deepest part of the seat should be approximately 6-7" back from the center of the stirrup bar.
Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
The illustration at leftConnect to the Internet if you can't see this image. shows a saddle that is too narrow for the horse and consequently sits with the deepest part of the seat too far back from the stirrup bar.
 
The last illustration of this series shows a saddle that is too wide and has the deepest part of the seat too close to the stirrup bar. The former will place your legs too far to the front while the latter will tend to tip you onto your crotch.
Width
Once you've ascertained that the balance is correct, check the width of the tree by stepping to the front of the saddle and observing the fit along the horse's barrel. The "welt" of the saddle (the round piece of leather that runs across the pommel and down either side) will usually correspond fairly accurately to the shape of the tree of the saddle. If you lay a riding whip along the horse's body, starting at the top of his withers and right in front of the saddle, you can compare the actual angle of his body to that of the tree of the saddle. If the two angles are very nearly identical, the width is correct. If the two lines converge over the top of the horse's back, the saddle is too wide, while it's too narrow if the lines diverge.
A word of caution here: It is the lesser evil if the saddle is slightly (and I do mean slightly) too narrow than if it is slightly too wide. A very mildly narrow saddle is an inconvenience to the rider because it will tend to cause his balance to be a bit too far back but nonetheless results in an even pressure along the panels of the saddle and no discomfort to the horse. A slightly wide saddle will increase the pressure in the area of the bars of the tree and result in discomfort on the part of the horse, who will usually react by tightening his shoulders and shortening the reach of the forelegs.
Bridging
"Bridging" is the result of a panel that is not contoured to fit the shape of the horse's back. It has become very popular in recent years to increase the flocking in the rear portion of the saddle panel which raises the cantle and helps to position the rider's pelvis correctly in the seat.
Unfortunately, as you increase the thickness of the panel by adding a gusset, the entire panel becomes more and more flat from front to back. Turn your saddle upside down and look at the panel - does it have a slight "banana" shaped curve or is it relatively straight and flat from front to back? Now look at your horse - can you take a piece of 2x4 the length of your saddle, sit it on his back and have it follow the contour? If the answer is "yes" (and it is with many Warmbloods) then the gusset panel saddle is for you! If, however, your horse's back drops a little after his withers then slopes slightly upward toward his croup, your piece of 2x4 will contact his body only in the front and back.
This is "bridging" and it can be as extreme as the 2x4 example or very subtle, resulting only in differentials of pressure. No matter how subtle it is it will be uncomfortable for the horse and will usually result in soreness and tightness in the loin area. Sensitive horses may object violently while more stoic individuals will probably become regular patients for equine chiropractors and massage therapists.
 
Left: Gusset Panel                                   Right: Traditional Panel

Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.                                          Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
Frequently riders become concerned whether the "banana" shape of traditional panels provide an optimum amount of support for the horse. It's certainly true that gusset panels have a greater surface area than traditional panels and the question of support may indeed be an important factor if the rider is a large, heavyweight person. But since the majority of dressage riders are men and women of normal stature, this rarely causes any problem for the horse and is certainly to be preferred to a heavy weight being pressed into his loins.

Compare your horse's topline to the illustrations below - Thoroughbred type on the left and Warmblood type on the right. If he is shaped like the horse on the left, a gussetted panel is probably not a good choice. 
thoroughbred        warmblood
Reflocking
When should my saddle be reflocked? The answer to that is when and if it needs it! I have a 27 year old Passier that has never been reflocked and doesn't need it yet! It has also never given a horse a moment's discomfort in his back.
 
You will be able to tell if your saddle needs reflocking. You'll one day notice that leather of the panels seems almost to have "grown." It will begin to bag and sag and perhaps to wrinkle. If you do not have excess space in the panels and you bring your saddle in for reflocking, where is the saddler supposed to put the new material?
 
When your saddle requires reflocking, be sure to chose a qualified craftsman for the job. A poorly reflocked panel will have lumps that will cause uneven pressure and discomfort for your horse.
Saddle Care
Frequent oiling is not necessary to insure good service from your saddle. As a matter of fact, precisely the opposite is true. Americans tend to over oil their tack while in Europe oil is used very infrequently. Regular cleaning with a quality glycerin soap will maintain your saddle in top condition - keeping the leather supple yet sturdy. If the leather in your saddle begins to feel dry or stiff from use or neglect, use a quality leather oil product sparingly.
Exceptions
There are always exceptions and I try not to say "always" or "never," for when I do I'm sure to immediately meet a horse or rider who gives the lie to every rule. However, if you follow these guidelines and use good common sense, as well as observing the way your horse reacts to a new saddle, you'll probably not stray far in your efforts to find a fit for both you and your horse. Good luck!
 
Connie Micheletti
 
More Resources
 
There is another excellent article on Saddle Fitting @ Free &Easy Saddles which discusses the movement of the horse in relation to saddle fit
 
Saddle Fit article from 'The Horse'
 
 
cover  
Saddle Fitting (Allen Photographic Guide).
 

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If you're a beginner, don't be put off by the prospect of having to handle a large strange horse and know how to tack up (put all the gear on) during your first lesson.  Riding schools will generally have your horse ready for you to ride when you arrive.  (Just remember to check your girth)
If you want to learn how to put on and take off your horse's gear or generally help with the horses, you will find that you are most welcome to.  You might like to start by taking your horse's gear off after your lesson.  There'll be less of a time constraint and taking gear off, is easier to start with than putting it on correctly. 

Tack
The sorts of gear (known as tack) that you may come into contact with as part of your riding lessons are; the saddle, bridle, head collar or halter, lead ropes, boots and blankets. If your horse has more complicated gear on than this, like a martingale, ask why, as this may mean that this is not a suitable horse for you to learn on.
All tack is done up from the near side and many items either have buckles only on one side or have more buckles on one side than another.  This is a visual clue for you, when you are putting tack on, as to which way around it should go.  Everything seems very simple in the books and pictures but when you are confronted with actually tacking up the first few times, you'll appreciate all the clues you can get.

The Head Collar, Halter or Head Stall
Head collars may be made from leather, webbing, nylon or rope and are the most basic form of control over your horse.
If the halter is leather or webbing it may have one or two buckles that both do up on the near side and a couple of 'O' rings where the noseband and the headpiece join on.  Generally you will only undo the buckle on the headpiece (see photo right) and then slide the noseband down over the horse's nose. Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
Head stalls technically are the basis of a bridle, without a bit or reins.  Halters may be made in such a way as to teach your horse to lead with some manners, that is they may provide a 'halting' action on either the poll and\or nose of the horse (much like a hackamore).  These sorts of halters are usually made from rope, the various joins being made from slip knots to allow the halter to change shape in order to provide this halting action.
 
Putting a Bridle On
Before taking off the horse's halter, slip the reins over the horse's head and down his neck.  This will give you some control over your horse if he should take fright or misbehave when you are trying to put the bridle on.
Note: Horse's behave in different ways to having a bridle put on, some are so eager or used to the routine, that they literally open up their mouths for you and help take the bit in, others are more tentative about having all those bits of leather near their eyes or may remember a bad experience with a bit and others take delight in teasing you.  Be calm, positive and workmanlike when tacking up and be considerate of your horse's sensitivities to items near their eyes or ears.
Putting on a bridle (Stage 1)
After putting the reins over the horse's head, remove the headcollar.  In this case it is sufficiently loose to simply slip over the horse's ears but with most halters you will need to unbuckle the headpiece.
With one hand hold your horse's nose, to keep it steady and slide the bridle up in front of his face.
Use one hand to hold the bridle and use the other to guide the bit into his mouth.  You may need to use your thumb to press his gums toward the back of his lips to ask him to open his mouth
Once the bit is in place, slide the headpiece over the horse's ears.  Make sure that you keep sufficent tension to keep the bit in place until the headpiece is secure.
After the headpiece is in place, bring the forelock through
Do up the throatlash. Make sure that you have one rein looped over your arm.
Make sure the throatlash isn't too tight, you should still be able to get your hand through.
Fasten the noseband.  In this case, it's a dropped noseband but you should do up the noseband appropriately for the type.
Putting on a bridle (Stage 2)
Boots
Boots for horses come in many shapes and materials, including leather, synthetic and neoprene.  Boots are most often used to protect the horse from knocking his own legs against one another or against obstacles in jumping.
By far the most common boots for everyday use in New Zealand are neoprene brushing boots, they're relatively cheap, easy to keep clean and fit any size horse.  They wrap around the fetlock of the horse, and have long velcro straps to keep them on.  You simply position them on each leg and wrap the straps around.  
However different horses have different requirements depending on their action. Bell boots protect the front legs from overreach injuries, tendon boots help support tendons and protect them from cuts or bruises,  floating or trucking boots try to protect the entire lower leg including the hocks and knees while a horse is transported.
There is also a huge range of specialist boots to protect horses for competition and for therapeutic purposes including sliding boots for western competition, magnetic boots and hose boots which allow a horse's legs to be constantly cooled with water.
 
Saddling Up
*If you are saddling a horse for the first time, make sure that you have someone on hand to check your work. A badly placed saddle may be dangerous for you and painful or harmful for your horse.
Begin saddling by brushing your hand over the horse's back, this both smooths down the hair and checks for any injuries or items stuck in the coat that you may not have seen. 
[PHOTOS BELOW] [1] Then place the saddle cloth or numnah on the horse's back making sure that is sits neatly and evenly.  Do not place the saddle too far forward or it will restrict the horse's shoulder and may cause pain or injury.  Place your hand on the shoulder blade and check that there is 2-3 fingers of room before the panel makes contact with the wither.  [2] Place the saddle quietly on and [3] bring the saddle cloth up under the pommel of the saddle so that it doesn't pinch or put pressure on the withers as the girth tightens on the saddle. [4-5] If there are straps for the numnah, do these up now.
 
Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.
[6-8] Finally bring the girth around to do up. [9] Leave a hand's width free, at first, to allow you to smooth the skin down under the girth.  This makes sure that the girth isn't pinching before you finally tighten it up. [10 & 11-12]  Ideally the girth should sit approx 1 hands width behind the horse's front leg (elbow) however this may vary with the horse's shape, type of saddle and the girth fittings.
Like everything else, rugs come in a wide variety of shapes and materials.  Frequently horses may have a number of rugs, and wear more than one during the colder winters months.  The inner rug can be a warm quilted rug that doesn't have to be waterproof since it is shielded by the heavy waterproof outer rug. If you're helping to put a horse's rugs on, the important thing to remember is that you make sure that the fastenings aren't going to rub on the horse or get tangled up in his legs.
Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.New Zealand Rugs: Commonly used in New Zealand this is a heavy waterproof canvas with simple fastenings that allow the horse freedom and yet keep the rug on, no matter what.  Overseas these are even known as 'New Zealand' rugs, although the version sold overseas often have more complex fastenings (they just can't stop themselves from making life more complex than it need be).
New Zealand rugs tend not to be 100% waterproof since they are just canvas (although it is 'proofed') they are however intended to provide protection from the worst of the weather and keep a horse used to living out 24x7 dry and warm in the temperate NZ climate without 'coddling' it. 
A New Zealand rug has just 2 sets of straps.  The rear leg straps go from just in front of the hind legs, are passed between the legs toward the tail, crossed over the opposite strap and twisted before being clipped onto 'D' rings at the back of the rug. The twisting is done so that the straps do not rub between the horse's rear legs.  Clips are done up through the 'D' rings of both rugs (if an underrug is being worn) and face the horse's body.  The spare leather is then fed through the clip ring, protecting the horse from both the clip and the rubbing of any spare strap leather. (In British books you will see the instruction to clip to the Dee away from the horse's body - but this is because the leather is then simply left hanging)
At the front the straps are simply done up.  If an under rug and/or protector is worn then the strap of the under rug is passed through a loop on the protector to stop it from sliding around underneath the rugs.
Synthetic Rugs are light and flexibleSynthetic Rugs: Synthetic rugs are becoming very popular as they are lighter and more waterproof than canvas.  They do tend to be more expensive than canvas rugs and the fabric tears more easily than heavy canvas.  However, newer high-tech fabrics with greater strength and even some stretch are coming onto the market.  When putting rugs on your horse remember that they have more problems shedding heat than staying warm, so don't wrap him up too warmly!  Hay provides a very efficient central heating system for your horse.
Anti-Rub Vests: Some horses also need a small poncho-like nylon or satin protector to help stop heavy rugs from rubbing on their withers or shoulders.  These may also use fleece patches for additional protection and all should have some method of attaching to the outer rug to stop it from slipping around.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bits and Bitting

From the earliest stages of the domestication of the horse man has used pressure on the sensitive bars of the horse's mouth to control the horse.  Some of the very oldest archeological finds of horse domestication from 6000bc at Dereivka, are the remains of two pieces of antler tines which have been pierced with carefully bored holes.  These match objects from later sites known to be the cheek pieces of a horse's bridle, the bit itself having been made of rope or sinew.  
read more about how archeology identifies whether a horse wore a bit or not...
Despite what is shown on the movies, the bit is not intended to be a device to either stop or turn a horse by yanking on the reins.  Indeed one of the goals of your riding instructor will be to get you to always use your leg, seat and weight aids prior to your hands (and therefore the bit). The aim should always be for the horse to accept the bit with a relaxed jaw, without pulling or grinding its teeth. 
The bit therefore is hopefully, an aid of finesse. It is used to position the head and to provide additional information to the horse, when used along with the other aids, as to which actions are being asked for and the collection or extension required.  By positioning the head the rider may assist the horse with balance during various movements. 
Description of 'parts' of a bit:
cannons lie on top of the bars and are therefore the main pieces of the bit that go in the horse's mouth.  They are measured by their diameter (thickness) not circumference (how far around).
The cheek is the length of the entire cheek piece.
The shank is the length from the cannon to where the rein attaches - snaffles don't have shanks.
The purchase is the length from the cannon to where the headstall attaches - it makes the headstall tighten up when the bit is used.
The link is the length of the middle part of the bit, if it's a bit with 3 or more mouth pieces.

In addition there are 7 points of control of the horse by the hands through the rein, 4 in the mouth (tongue, bars, palate and corners of lips) and 3 on the head (poll, nose, curb groove). The palate is a very severe point of control. The curb groove causes the horse to pivot his head so that he comes "on the bit."
Bit thickness does not alter the basic mechanism by which a bit works. Thick bits move less in response to a rein aid, and tend to "neutralize" strong half halts. It is a myth that thicker bits are always kinder to the horse, provided one does not go to a "cutting" degree of thinness.  It is important to remember that the horse's mouth is not made to accept a bit and is quite full with its own tongue, therefore it is unfair to expect a horse to accept a large bit or bits, without being allowed to open its mouth a little. Since the horse can't spit out the bit, he may try to spit out his tongue instead, or else to open his mouth. In general, thinner bits are more comfortable for the horse.
There is an advantage to a heavier bit. It is silly to worry about the horse having to carry the weight of the bit, when you compare that with the weight of his head, and the weight of a rider. A too light bit may not return to its original position with the giving of the rein, so that the horse will not get feel a release. A bit should feel substantial.
 
A bit with a curve to both halves of the mouthpiece conforms better to the shape of the horse's lower jaw than a straight mouthpiece.  When choosing a single jointed snaffle, ensure that there is room for 2 fingers to sit between the 2 halves of the bit when the joint closes. This allows the bit to 'hang' in a natural curved shape and it is less likely to allow the joint, in the case of an ordinary single jointed snaffle, to push up into the horse's palate - a very uncomfortable situation, as you can imagine! 
For english style riding there are four basic groups; snaffle, double bridles, pelham and gag.
The Snaffle
The snaffle is (generally) a mild bit which acts on the outside of the bars of the mouth, the lips or the corners of the mouth depending upon the hand action.  It is the simplest, most popular bit.  
Snaffles come in several basic mouthpiece types; straight bar, mullen mouth, single and double jointed snaffles and may be made from stainless steel, rubber covered steel, copper alloys, and various plastics.   
The straight bar mouthpiece puts pressure on the tongue, whereas a slightly curved mullen mouthpiece is more comfortable for many horses. Synthetic or rubber mullen mouths allow the horse to bend the bit with its tongue.  A single-jointed bit has a mild nutcracker action, a double-jointed bit has a central link that reduces this action but may feel less definite in the hands.  
Link snaffles have a flat sided central plate to increase pressure on the tongue and may be used on strong horses.   As well as different types of mouthpiece snaffles may also have varying rings or cheek pieces.  An egg-butt snaffle is less likely to pinch or damage a horse's lips than an ordinary ring snaffle.  
Other cheek types include; loose ring, full cheek and D ring.   A snaffle with cheeks helps prevents the bit from rubbing the sides of the horse's mouth, pulling the bit through the mouth from one side to another and there is usually a leather keeper which attaches to the bridle to stop the bit from turning over.  
Beware of using complex jointed snaffles in conjunction with tight nosebands which keep the mouth shut.  When this is done the horse may receive considerable pain and damage to the roof of the mouth (the hard palate).
There are many variations on the snaffle, none of which alter its basic predominant function:
bulletEggbutt: There is no advantage over a correctly fitted loose-ring snaffle IN GOOD HANDS. With a loose-ring, a small rein aid results in movement of the bit, so that the horse can respond to a lighter, more invisible aid. However, with a novice rider, this means that EVERY wobble on the rein is transmitted to the horse. Eggbutts with their fixed cheek piece, only transmit the "hard" wobbles to the horse's mouth.
bulletD-Ring. Unless the shanks of the D-Rings are very long, they behave exactly like an eggbutt. May be less likely to be pulled through the mouth.
bulletFull Cheek. The bit action itself is the same, but now there are cheek pieces to give some advantages: keepers prevent the horse from turning the bit over in his mouth (useful in young horses), and the cheek pieces themselves supply some direct rein aid and can prevent a horse from evading by crossing his jaw.
bulletFrench Link. The French link snaffle also rests on the bars, but applies less corner pressure and removes the pinpoint tongue pressure of a single jointed snaffle.
bulletKK Snaffle. This double-jointed snaffle has 2 points bearing down on the tongue, so it has a STRONGER tongue action than the simple snaffle. Also, depending on its thickness, it may also add palate pressure. It does however, release pressure on the corners of the mouth. It is a stronger bit than the French snaffle, and depending on the size of the link and whether the horse prefers tongue pressure to corner-of-the-mouth pressure, may be more severe than the simple snaffle. 6. Dewsbury Link. This bit has more weight than the French link, and so encourages the horse to come down and into the hand. It is particularly useful for horses that don't like to follow the bit for long and low work, and during the free walk.
bulletPorted Link. The action of this bit is identical to the KK but may be a little milder or harsher depending upon the dimensions of the bit.
bulletDr. Bristol. In this bit, the link cuts through the mouthpieces on an angle (the French goes through straight). It is bit designed to give and release tongue pressure. The problem is that the bit's action is opposite depending on which way it is seated on the bridle: a simple mistake during bridle cleaning could have disastrous results on the day of the test. When the link is placed so that is goes up and away from the rider, then raising the hands releases the tongue pressure and lowering the hands increases tongue pressure.
bulletBaucher Snaffle. This can be thought of as a "poll pressure snaffle." Because the cheek piece is attached to a different ring than the rein, pressure on the rein puts slightly increased pressure on the poll (through a rocking action of the bit in the mouth), encouraging the horse to lower the head slightly. This bit is extremely useful in horses who need to be worked low and deep in order to develop muscle tone or with horses who tend to carry their heads a bit high. The effect is not dramatic-this bit gives a gentle suggestion, but does not demand. DO NOT confuse with the "hanging cheek" snaffle below.
bulletHanging Cheek Snaffle. In this bit, the mouthpiece attaches at the centerline of the cheek piece, so pressure on the rein has a straightforward up and back action. In order to get the action of a Baucher bit, the mouthpiece must attach to the cheek piece ABOVE the centerline so that rein pressure causes the bit to tilt forward, slightly increasing pressure on the poll.
bulletFull Mouth. This is similar in appearance to a full cheek snaffle, except the shanks are attached to the mouthpiece, rather than the rings. This provides greater leverage on the corners of the mouth, making this a very strong bit. It has no role in dressage, except perhaps the reschooling of a very strong horse.
 
 
Every Dream Starts with a Single Step, Take Your Step Today!

Women from History Who Dared To Change the World (credit: O Magazine)

600 B.C. TO 200 B.C.: Tribes of statuesque women (and men) roam the Eurasian steppes. The fearsome Amazons of myth? Not exactly. But archeological evidence suggests that among these nomads, the women were the warriors.

Circa 39: Dynamic sister duo Trung Trac and Trung Nhi amass a Vietnamese army in a revolt against Chinese rule. For four years, they lead the rebellion.

Circa 395: Fabiola, a Roman aristocrat whose divorce and subsequent remarriage were condemned by Christian society, founds a hospital for the poor and other outcasts of her city. It's likely one of the first hospitals in the Western world.

Circa 1001: Murasaki Shikibu begins writing The Tale of Genji, an epic portrait of court life (twice as long as War and Peace), considered by many to be the greatest masterpiece of Japanese literature and possibly the world's first novel.

1429: Peasant girl Joan of Arc commands the French army in a series of victorious battles to liberate her homeland from the English; she is burned at the stake for her trouble.

Circa 1579: Grace O'Malley, a swashbuckling Irish pirate known for raiding ships, fights off an English government expedition sent to stop her.

Circa 1613: In her graphically violent painting Judith Slaying Holofernes, Italian artist Artemisia Gentileschi slays the ideal of submissive womanhood: Her heroine is fierce, powerful, and ruthless.

1777: Teenager Sybil Ludington rides all night long through a storm to alert the 400 men in her father's militia that the redcoats are coming. She's called the female Paul Revere—but Paul rode with two of his buddies. And he was captured by the British.

1805: Sacagawea joins Lewis and Clark as their expedition's interpreter, traveling thousands of miles across the Rockies with her newborn babe strapped to her back. Who says life ends when you have kids?

1814: As the British torch Washington, D.C., First Lady Dolley Madison remains in the White House long enough to rescue historic valuables—running out moments before the soldiers charge in.

1862: Sarah Rosetta Wakeman, just 19 and dressed as a man, enlists in the Union Army. In a letter home, she assures: "I don't fear the rebel bullets nor I don't fear the cannon."

1867: Ida Lewis rescues three drowning men from wind-whipped swells in Newport Harbor. Then she rows back to save their sheep. Ida later becomes the country's first female lighthouse keeper.

1872: Victoria Claflin Woodhull becomes the first woman to run for president. A colorful candidate, she advocates for free love.

1906: Madam C.J. Walker hawks shampoos and serums door-to-door. The orphaned daughter of former slaves, she becomes one of America's wealthiest businesswomen.

1912: Astronomer Henrietta Swan Leavitt discovers the period-luminosity relationship (later used to calculate the distances between Earth and the stars).

1914: Barnstorming adrenaline junkie Georgia "Tiny" Broadwick makes the first-ever free fall from a plane.

1916: In a tenement neighborhood in Brooklyn, Margaret Sanger opens the doors of the country's first birth control clinic. Outside at least 150 women are waiting.

1916: Movie star Mary Pickford insists on becoming her own producer. America's Sweetheart is no sucker.

1937: Amelia Earhart disappears on the ultimate adventure—her attempt to fly around the globe. In a note to her husband, she explains: "I want to do it because I want to do it."

1938: Anna Mary Robertson Moses sells her first paintings, at age 78. Known as "Grandma" Moses, she continues to paint for 23 years, becoming one of the century's most renowned folk artists.

1941: Protofeminist superhero Wonder Woman first appears in a comic book, fighting off Fascists in star-spangled hot pants.

1946: Super-geekette Dorothy Hodgkin cracks penicillin's chemical makeup with an X-ray crystallographer. (Eighteen years later she'll earn the Nobel Prize.)

1953: Jackie Cochran flies an F-86 Sabre jet through the sound barrier. She learned to fly so she could travel around selling cosmetics, but it turns out trashing speed records is a lot more fun.

1959: On the edge of the Serengeti Plain, Mary Leakey digs up and pieces together a 1.7-million-year-old hominid skull, one of the most important finds in the history of archeology.

1960: At the Rome Olympics, Wilma Rudolph (left)—once partially paralyzed by polio—earns three gold medals in track-and-field, the first American woman to do so.

1963: Soviet cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova becomes the first female to fly a spacecraft around the globe.

1967: Kathrine Switzer dares to run the all-male Boston Marathon, while an irate race official chases her.

1981: Alexa Canady becomes the first black female neurosurgeon in the United States.

1985: Just 175 miles from the Iditarod finish line, Libby Riddles heads into a blizzard when other mushers opt to stay in camp; this gives her a six-hour lead and, ultimately, the win.

1989: Performance artist Karen Finley smears her body with chocolate to illustrate that women are treated like, you know, dirt. The National Endowment for the Arts rescinds her funding, but she ultimately gets it back.

2005: Roz Savage quits her corporate job, leaves her unraveling marriage, and rows across the Atlantic by herself. Midlife crisis averted.

2008: Sandra Andersen, a barista at a Starbucks in Tacoma, Washington, learns that one of her customers needs a kidney to live. So she gives the woman hers.

2009: Navigator Ann Daniels leads the Catlin Arctic Survey, a 74-day journey from the Arctic Ocean to the North Pole to measure the thickness of sea ice.

*******************

The Warmth of A Horse

When your day seems out balance...
and so many things go wrong ...
When people fight around you
and the clock drags on so long ...
When some folks act like children
and fill you with remorse ...
Go out into your pasture and wrap
your arms around your horse.

His gentle breath enfolds you as he
watches with those eyes ...
He may not have a PhD but he
is, oh so wise!
His head rests on your shoulder
you hug him good and tight ...
He puts your world in balance
and makes it seem all right.

Your tears will soon stop flowing,
the tension will be eased ...
The nonsense has been lifted.
You are quiet and at peace.
So when you need some balance
from the stresses in your day ...
The therapy you really need
Is out there eating hay!

 

                              "Saving the life of one horse may not change the world,

        but the world will surely change for that one horse”
     

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